Friday, July 17, 2015

Women In Climbing


I am a woman, and I climb.

I love women in climbing. I have so many fantastic and inspiring female climber friends in my life. I feel empowered every time I meet a female climber who is out there doing her thing, climbing in whatever way is best for her. For many years I led the “Ladies Night” at The Boulders Climbing Gym, and I had the pleasure of teaching “Women in Bouldering” at The Hive for a year… Through both I was inspired constantly by the drive and ambition of such powerful female characters who were psyched to push themselves and their climbing abilities.

I also love my climbing boys. I feel SO lucky as a woman to have Graham as my incredibly supportive life partner, in addition to many wonderfully supportive male friends. No matter how “hard” or “well” I am climbing, I am always treated like an equal in my climbing circle. To all my climbing friends, male, female and everything in between: you are all rad. Our gender doesn’t matter.

Coming from such a positive climbing environment, I was appalled recently by a comment that was made publicly by a (well known) climber at the Acephale Crag in the Bow Valley. This male person was climbing a route and experiencing some difficulty about mid way. His friends below were offering beta, and he exclaimed that he didn’t want to do it the “effeminate weak way”, but would rather find some masculine burly way. My jaw dropped. I had been watching him climb up until that moment, but proceeded to walk away, hurt and embarrassed. I responded “Oh I’m not offended” in a sarcastic tone, but immediately regretted it, wishing I had taken the opportunity to tell him off. Fortunately none of his friends condoned the comment…thankfully they are from the 21st century.

I wanted to tell this person that his comment was thoughtless. That it was extremely hurtful. That it was destructive to women in climbing. That implying females are weak, in climbing or in general, strips women of their empowerment. That as a well known person in the climbing community that others look up to, he was setting a terrible example. Instead I fought back tears, confided in my male friends, and stayed as far away from him as possible. The climbing at Acephale is stout and difficult, and I was one of only two females present at the crag that day amidst several male climbers. How on earth did he think that would make us feel? 

Thank you to Graham, Dan, Tristan and Cory for your wonderfully supportive comments after I shared with you this story. Gender discrimination is not cool. It doesn’t matter if we are male, female, queer, etc… we deserve to be treated equal. Empowerment in climbing for all.

Later on the male person mentioned he has kids… I sure as hell hope someone is helping him with the lessons he is passing along. If he has daughters, I hope they don’t grow up believing they are of a weaker gender, and if he has sons, I hope they don’t grow up treating girls as lesser.

***

Finally, here are just a few of the awesome bad-ass climber chicks in my life that inspire me every day. 

Saturday, June 27, 2015

Kickstarting the Squamish Summer


June.

Wow, WHAT a month. For a time of year that is typically soggy and sloshed over with rain, June 2015 was amazing. With only four days of “rain” over the four weeks we’ve been in Squamish so far, we’ve lucked out pretty good for climbing.

We have had a whirlwind of fun times with some pretty stellar folks so far……

We jump-started our month by celebrating the marriage of this fine climbing couple:
Tristan sending "Killing Me Softly" (V6), and Mika bearing down on the crimps of "Lounge Act" (V6)
Our friend Josh, who we met in Bishop this winter, came up to boulder for a week:
Josh compresses the heck out of "Child Abuse" (V4)
We spent many a day with great friends from Vancouver:
Cory maneuvers through some techy explorations of "Shaving with a Knife" (5.13a),
and Mico snags a proud onsight of "C is for Safe" (5.11d)
Cynthia pulls into the first move on "The Fuzz" (V7),
and Julie cranks through crimps on the classic "Crystal Method" (V5)
Babies!! Mark teaches his little ones a thing or two, and young Annabelle presses out a sickie mantel ;)


First times!! Alex introduces Dia to the fun and joy of outdoor rock climbing at Forgotten Wall.
Yannick finesses up the "Vorpal Sword" (5.12d) and Simon tops out a great send of "The Rookie" (V8)
Had some awesome sessions with fellow Squamish-summer-residents:
Boulderers caught sport climbing? Pat tackles the first bulge of "Funkytown" (5.12c)
Megan gets a quick tick of "Timeless" (V5) before the rain, and Mario works out the moves on "Lounge Act" (V6)
Stolen from her facebook... Aly has been crushing trad routes in Squamish - can't wait to climb with her more!
And made some wonderful new travelling friends too:
Amanda on "The Fuzz" (V7). Damn girl! Those calves though! :D
Alex on "The Fuzz" (V7)

*** 
Our goal was to spend most of the month bouldering before jumping into more trad and sport climbing in July and August, based on the theory that it would be cooler in June. The plan kind of worked and we managed to beat the surprising heat by hiding in the forest most days and racking up when those slopers were just feeling too greasy slopey.

Graham had a great month, ticking a number of classic boulder problems. He is working towards his goal of climbing all the “Top100” problems V10 and below!
Working out the moves on the Top100 problem "Physics Hyperbole" (V9)
Topping out the Top100 "Storm Troopers" (V8) in Paradise Valley
Another one of Graham’s goals is to tick every route at the Forgotten Wall in Cheakamus Canyon. He’s making awesome progress in this regard with only three routes left to go.
"Redneck Shootout" (5.13a)
Graham also hit a bouldering milestone this month, with a send of his tenth V10. Woohoo!
One of two V10s Graham sent this month, "Mr. Bigglesworth Low"

Kim similarly had a great month. She made quick work of a number of her long outstanding boulder projects in the V4 to V6 range, and found some new projects that piqued her interest as well.
Kim on the send of "Lounge Act" (V6)
She also reached two of her major climbing life goals within just a few days of each other. On June 21 she sent her first V7, “The Fuzz”, and three days later she sent her first 5.13a, “Just Can’t Do It”. These moments of ecstasy and disbelief are leading into what is sure to be an exciting summer.
"The Fuzz", Kim's first V7
"Just Can't Do It", Kim's first 5.13a
Next up is a quick turn-around on the Island, and then we’ll be on our way to Canmore until mid-July.

xx
Graham and Kim



Saturday, May 16, 2015

Discovering Victoria's Local Bouldering


As many already know, we are back on the island for the month of May! We are loving being in Victoria again, spending time with family and friends, eating food harvested from the backyard gardens and prepared in a REAL kitchen, doing a bit of manual labour here and there, and exploring some of the special local climbing spots.

Years ago when we first started climbing outdoors, we’d do day trips or afternoons at local sport crags… Mount Wells, Mount MacDonald, East Sooke, or the infamous Fleming Beach. Our Victoria bouldering adventures had basically been limited to occasional trips to “Cyberia” (Hartland Dump).

One of the mini projects we have taken on for May is exploring as many of the local bouldering spots as possible. These “secret spots” had always seemed elusive to us… we'd heard of them but never knew anything about them or how to find them. Certain places are becoming known and travelled as a result of making their way onto Sendage, such as  “Powerlines” with its four (now more) problems, but many locations seem to have become somewhat forgotten.  

While doing some research into how to find these bouldering nooks we stumbled upon “Greater Victoria Boulder Problems”, a 1999 guidebook put together by Peter Michaux. What a treasure! This 30 page typewriter-font book with hand drawn maps and topos provides details on seven different bouldering areas. Who knew there was bouldering at Government House? The greatest thing about the book though is the history contained within it. Most of these mid-to-late 90s problems are named, and descriptions list whoever did the first ascent and the year. Key developers included guys like Tim Doyle and Nick Gibbs – very neat to see a bit of their Victoria legacy. No grades are provided with any of the problems, which in our opinion forces us to have an open mind, be creative, and use our brains a bit more. If you’re interested in checking out the book, here is the link: http://flemingbeacheliminates.ca/greater-victoria-boulder-problems-1999
 

So far we’ve bouldered in the Highlands at the small bluff-type “Powerlines” wall (Sendage), known as Head Cut Off Cliff in the Michaux guide. This is a very fun little after-work cliff, with decent grade range considering there are only about 4-5 problems so far. We’re not sure what the rock type is, but there are lots of crimps and the holds can be quite textured.

Graham climbs "White Velvet" (on Sendage) or "This Way to Get your Head Cut Off" in the Michaux guide
(FA Peter Michaux and Tim Doyle, 1997). Estimated grade: soft V5
Graham climbing "Black Velvet Low" (on Sendage), or a low start to "The Gallows" in the Michaux guide
(FA Tim Doyle, 1997). Estimated grade: V9/V10?
Evidence of the sharp rock... Dan gave some skin to the crimpers
There are a couple other spots in the Highlands as well. Just five minutes from the Powerlines boulder is another cliff which the Michaux guide calls Pike Lake, with five described problems. 

The Pike Lake cliff. Dan climbs what is possibly a new variation to "Short Face", which he dubbed "Short Face Left". It adds a slightly harder start and goes around V5
Also in the Highlands is the Lone Boulder – easily approached via nice wide walking trails. The Lone Boulder is a large stand-alone boulder, with at least 14 problems encircling the entire thing.

The other main spot we’ve been checking out so far is the beach bouldering in Cordova Bay, known as the Timber Lane boulders in the Michaux guide. It’s pretty critical that this area is visited at low tide, or wet feet might be a bit of a set-back… 

Landing area at high tide

Landing area at low tide - much better!
The rock at the timber boulders is smooth and wave polished yet still quite angular. Depending on the problem, some holds were gentle on the skin but others were fairly sharp and painful. We tried a few different problems and are excited to return to get on some of the harder stuff. 

This is a nameless "Face" problem in the Michaux guide. The moves were really fun and consistent - we think about V3.
(FA Tim Doyle, 1997)
A long and powerful traverse problem. We spent some time sequencing this, and think it could be around V5ish?
(FA Tim Doyle, 1998)
A waving sea lion just off shore
Let us know if you want to join in our Victoria bouldering explorations. The more the merrier!

Friday, May 8, 2015

Skaha Bluffs Sport Climbing


Penticton, BC is beautiful in April. There are new leaves on the trees, flowers are in bloom, bird spring migration is in full swing, and the wineries are all opening for the season. Mmmmm…



Graham and I spent the month exploring the quality Okanagan sport climbing in the Skaha Bluffs, joined by many of our climbing friends from Victoria and Vancouver. Skaha has good diversity of grades, climbing styles, and terrain, which makes it an awesome playground and also a great place to work on projects. We climbed loads of fun routes during the month but still we feel like we hardly scratched the surface in terms of the volume of climbing in the area. We will definitely be coming back soon!  

We both spent a good chunk of our time working on a couple special projects. Graham set his sights on “The Replicant” (5.13d) before we arrived, and after a few days I focused in on “Wings of Steel” (5.12d) as my goal for the month.

Graham climbing "The Replicant" (5.13d)
Kim climbing "Wings of Steel" (5.12d)
After multiple days of dragging friends back to The Belfry and The Great White Wall over and over again, we finished the trip by both sending just in the nick of time! These were the hardest routes we have climbed to date, so they were super exciting sends for both of us. Squamish Magazine even gave us a little shout-out! http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/local-news-mcgrenere-on-the-replicant/. Graham also got his first 5.13a onsight, on a route called "12-Step Derailer". Yay!

The memories you make when climbing with friends are always the best part about trips. Needless to say, this month was gold. Here are a just few of the April moments that really make us smile!

These faces... that is all :)
Lazy crag days
Girls hikes to waterfalls!

Watching our friends CRUSH! (This is Dan on "Nexus 6" 5.14a)

Dan's awesome Skaha month was featured in Gripped Magazine!! Check it out: http://gripped.com/news/dan-beland-sending-skahas-test-pieces/

Happy times and silly moments
"Honnolding"
Shep