So long 2016, Hello 2017

That’s a wrap 2016! Somehow this year seemed to just fly by. It was a trip around the sun filled with both ups and downs, but overall has left us in a place of happiness and anticipation for what’s around the corner next. 

While reflecting over the year, we came up with a list of the eleven most memorable moments for us in 2016, and of course a second list of our ten biggest climbing highlights ;)

Eleven Biggest Moments of 2016 

1. Following a whirlwind battle with cancer, we say good bye to Nanny (Kim’s grandmother) on January 3^rd

2. In an attempt to gather more “lifer birds”, we add Burrowing Owl, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, and White-faced Ibis to our list at the Salton Sea in mid-January

3. We connect with Shelma, founder of Flash Foxy, and help out with the inaugural Women’s Climbing Festival in Bishop, California

 

4. We experience the Death Valley “super bloom” in March, which hadn’t occurred to that extent in over 10 years!

5. We get engaged!

6. Summer 2016: Kim spent the summer in Alberta, making new friends, finding cool plants (like pitcher plants in fens!), hiking, canoeing, and doing a bit of climbing. Graham spent the summer in Vancouver, getting in lots of climbing and adventures in Squamish. Living in different provinces for four months was difficult, but we both had tons of valuable and awesome experiences.

Photo credit: Jesse Archer

7. We buy our first guitar and both start learning to play

8. Our dear friends treat us to incredibly fun surprise bachelor and bachelorette weekends

Photo credit: Melissa Gillespie

9. We get married on a stormy October day <3

Photo credit: Brodie Frehlich

10. We spend an awesome weekend on Valdez Island in the company of people we love 

11. Vancouver is treated to a wonderfully snowy December and we have snow at our place all month long

Top Ten Climbing Moments of 2016

1. Graham climbs Xavier’s Roof, his second V11

2. Kim climbs Gastonia and Gastonia Sit (V8, V9) her hardest of the grade

3. Kim sends her 100^th route 5.12 or harder, and her 10^th 5.13

4. Kim sends the scary, run-out, Full Heinous Cling (5.12c R) on her second attempt

Photo credit: Yannick Neufeld-Cumming

5. Graham adventures up CardiYak Rhythm on Yak Peak with his good friend Doug the Slug

6. Kim’s second article for Gripped Magazine appears in the August print issue, and she starts a climbing-writer job for the online adventure hub, The Adventure Junkies

Photo credit: Alyssia Jebb

7. Graham sends his two-summer-long project, Division Bell (5.13d)

Photo credit: Dan Beland

8. Graham sends Permanent Waves (5.13d), right before the rains swallow Squamish for the rest of the season

9. We start training in late October for our upcoming trip in January and begin to see improvements

10. We quit our jobs and move out of our suite - #retirement2017 here we come!

What happened to our fall season?

We leapt into September this year with a vengeance. Graham and I had spent the four months of summer apart. I had a fantastic job doing biodiversity monitoring in northern Alberta with the ABMI (they’ve posted positions for next year already!) and Graham settled back in Vancouver and returned to his awesome job at MEC. Autumn just around the corner, we were psyched to be back together again, psyched to be climbing, and psyched to planning our rapidly approaching October wedding. 

For Graham, September was to be an exciting time on the rock for a few reasons. The summer is usually hot in Squamish with unfavourable conditions, and this year was warm and wet – a terrible combination. He was hoping for dry, cool temperatures that tend to get people all over the continent geared up and excited. A classic “Sendtember”, as they say.

I was just excited to get back on the rock. I had to give up climbing entirely for three months, which was desperately difficult having just come back from our road trip. Fortunately, my crew moved to Edmonton in August, which allowed me to begin to build back some fitness in the evenings at the U of A climbing gym, and on weekend trips to Jasper and the Canmore. A four hour drive to get to your weekend destination hardly gets a second thought when you haven’t been climbing for months. 

Ffantom Love (5.11d) at The Lookout in the Bow Valley. Photo credit: Bonar McCallum

September DID start out promising. 

Graham sent his long term project Division Bell (5.13d) on the Big Show on the second day of the month. I started working Ill Communication (5.13b), and had one-hung it by the end of my third day. Graham resurrected another old project to work on, Permanent Waves (5.13d), and I started trying Young Blood (5.13a) for my fall-project-in-the-forest. Graham made progress on Black Council (V11). 

First and last try of the season on Young Blood (5.13a). Photo credit: Kirsten or Yannick :)

And then……….

The rainpocalypse landed. 

Rainpocalyse outside The Hive North Shore

It just kept coming and coming.

In Vancouver, it rained 28 of the 31 days in October. That is more October rain days for the city than have EVER been recorded. 

There was a TINY gap in the wetness on October 11. Graham drove to Squamish after work, waiting patiently in line at the base of the Cacodemon Boulder, and gave Permanent Waves one more try before darkness crept into the forest. He sent!!!!!!! Then he headed to the ferry and made his way to meet me in Victoria where we would tie the knot four days later.

🦄 few days in Squamish with a break from the precip-pocalypse. I made it up after work and before heading to Victoria for a last ditch effort at Permanent Waves (5.13d). It paid off! This marks my last send before becoming a married man! 💍 • • • #climbing #rockclimbing #squamish #noplacetoofar #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbmoja #squamishisawesome #climbonsquamish #justgoclimb #outdooroots #getoutside #ilovesquamish #grippedmagazine #happyclimbing #climbingisbliss #pnw

A photo posted by Graham McGrenere and Kim House (@kimstagraham.mcg) on Oct 11, 2016 at 9:29pm PDT

Despite all odds, we aren’t giving up yet. Graham and I check the weather daily… usually this is disappointing, but sometimes there is a glimmer of hope at the end of the two-week forecast. However, so far November has been almost as bad as October. Sigh. 

A couple things help us to keep the psych alive. Training with friends. Religiously browsing Instagram and getting stoked about what everyone else is climbing. And dreaming big for the next time we can hit the road. 

Graham, Yannick, and Andrew doing weighted pull-ups as part of our training

The path near our house. Wet wet wet.

Division Bell

Summer is drawing to a close and it is time to start wrapping up those projects. September is one of our favourite months of the year for climbing, and Graham took it upon himself to usher in the season of Sendtember with style. So now I get to gush a little...

Graham had been projecting Division Bell (5.13d) at Chek on and off for a couple summers. One of Squamish's Top 100 climbs, it climbs the striking diagonal crack from the bottom left to the top right of the 35-40 degree overhanging "Big Show" wall. The route has two cruxes: the "real" crux just before a midway alcove, and an unforgiving redpoint crux at the second to last draw. 

Stoked to have made some great progress on Division Bell (5.13d) as rains hit the #squamish valley this weekend. Can't wait to jump back on this fun line. #climbing #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbonsquamish #justgoclimb #noplacetoofar #e9climbing #e9clothing #liveclimbrepeat #getoutside #climbinglife

A photo posted by Graham McGrenere and Kim House (@kimstagraham.mcg) on Aug 11, 2015 at 8:16am PDT

The redpoint crux is a major mental challenge that has thwarted many a climber, many a time. Graham fell at this point in the route a number of times, and had this to say about the process and the send: 

"My epic with this route is finally over. It was definitely a mental roller coaster for me. Many beta changes, some unconventional beta in the crux, wobblers, and falling 18 times at the redpoint crux culminated in FINALLY sticking the slopey pinch and making my way to the top. A wonderful start to Sendtember. We had a great group out on a rainy Thursday AND Kim is back in town! I wasn't able to make the finger lock in the crux work for me - see Beta section for alternate beta ;)"  Source: Graham's Sendage

Projecting can be very mentally draining. Falling in the same spot over and over can become discouraging. It is important to remember that progress can be measured by more than just a high point. Tonight that rang true for me after falling for the 15th time in the same spot at the end of Division Bell (5.13d)...but this time I am leaving with renewed psych. 📷 @dan.beland of me pulling the crux on one of many goes last year. #climbing #rockclimbing #climbmoja #grippedmagazine #liveclimbrepeat #iloveclimbing #noplacetoofar #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #justgoclimb #squamish #knowyourroutes #iloooveit #squamishisawesome #climbingisbliss #mecstaffer

A photo posted by Graham McGrenere and Kim House (@kimstagraham.mcg) on May 31, 2016 at 9:26pm PDT

So when a grey and drizzly September 1st rolled around and Graham cruised up the route he had been on dozens and dozens of times to clip the chains at last, we were ecstatic! It was a superb day. I know that Graham (and I) are both super thankful for the ongoing support and encouragement from so many wonderful friends over the course of this (fun!) battle. 

Many thanks to Squamish Climbing Magazine and Gripped Magazine for their supportive shout-outs as well:

http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/recent-news-graham-mcgrenere%E2%80%8E-sends-division-bell-5-13d/

http://gripped.com/news/graham-mcgrenere-sends-division-bell-big-show/


Aaaaaaand a few more photos from last week, with photo talent credit going to our good friend Dan :) 

We can't wait to see what the rest of Sendtember will bring :D

Squamish Moments

On August 28^th, our last climbing day in Squamish, we were chatting with a fellow climber out at Chek and mentioned that we were sad to be leaving Squamish. He responded in disbelief, exclaiming that we are headed for much better destinations, especially as the rains set in for fall and winter. We don’t disagree… but our sadness in leaving Squamish has nothing to do with the exciting places we are going to, it is simply a result of departing from a place we love.

Squamish is our special place. Kim’s first trip to Squamish was back in 2007, Graham’s in 2009. We started annual trips from the island to Squamish in 2010, and we have spent every summer here from 2012 onward. Squamish has everything – technically demanding granite boulders, abundant single and multi-pitch traditional climbing, and lots of really fun sport climbing. We have also both experienced many of our climbing milestones in this place. To name a few for each of us…

Graham: First of every bouldering grade up to V10. First V7, V8, V9 flash. First 12a gear. First 13a gear.

Kim: First of every bouldering grade up to V5, and first V5 flash. First V7. First 12a sport. First 13a sport.

In addition to the physical climbing, we have experienced more moments and have a larger collection of memories in this place than any other climbing area we’ve been. This summer was no exception – what a wonderful summer to have spent with friends.

We spent a ton of time with a few people who are very dear to us. Here are just a few of them...

We were so excited to spend a week of family time in early August as Kevin and Melissa both came up to visit. This was Kevin’s first trip to Squamish, and we’re pretty confident he’s hooked! It was wonderful to spend so much time together and see him push his limits over the course of his stay. 

Kevin cruising one of the bouldering circuits we took him on

Chris, Ruth, Jared and Roscoe came out the week after that with their buddy Zac, who we were thrilled to finally meet. We were SO excited to be reunited with this crew as we’ve missed them so much since we parted ways in late March. They’re just in the process of launching their new company, Kin Climbing, and have started with some rad t-shirts that we are very excited to sport. We can’t wait to see them again next month!

The boys sporting nifty Kin Climbing tanks... #knowyourroutes

So yes, we are sad to leave Squamish, but it is a bittersweet kind of sad. We can hardly contain our excitement about all the places we are headed over the next eight months, but it is always sad to say good-bye to a place you love.

***

Graham on his recent send of Zombie Roof (5.13a)

Kickstarting the Squamish Summer

June.

Wow, WHAT a month. For a time of year that is typically soggy and sloshed over with rain, June 2015 was amazing. With only four days of “rain” over the four weeks we’ve been in Squamish so far, we’ve lucked out pretty good for climbing.

We have had a whirlwind of fun times with some pretty stellar folks so far……

We jump-started our month by celebrating the marriage of this fine climbing couple:

Tristan sending "Killing Me Softly" (V6), and Mika bearing down on the crimps of "Lounge Act" (V6)

Our friend Josh, who we met in Bishop this winter, came up to boulder for a week:

Josh compresses the heck out of "Child Abuse" (V4)

We spent many a day with great friends from Vancouver:

Cory maneuvers through some techy explorations of "Shaving with a Knife" (5.13a),
and Mico snags a proud onsight of "C is for Safe" (5.11d)

Cynthia pulls into the first move on "The Fuzz" (V7),
and Julie cranks through crimps on the classic "Crystal Method" (V5)

Babies!! Mark teaches his little ones a thing or two, and young Annabelle presses out a sickie mantel ;)

First times!! Alex introduces Dia to the fun and joy of outdoor rock climbing at Forgotten Wall.

Yannick finesses up the "Vorpal Sword" (5.12d) and Simon tops out a great send of "The Rookie" (V8)

Had some awesome sessions with fellow Squamish-summer-residents:

Boulderers caught sport climbing? Pat tackles the first bulge of "Funkytown" (5.12c)

Megan gets a quick tick of "Timeless" (V5) before the rain, and Mario works out the moves on "Lounge Act" (V6)

Stolen from her facebook... Aly has been crushing trad routes in Squamish - can't wait to climb with her more!

And made some wonderful new travelling friends too:

Amanda on "The Fuzz" (V7). Damn girl! Those calves though! :D

Alex on "The Fuzz" (V7)

*** 

Our goal was to spend most of the month bouldering before jumping into more trad and sport climbing in July and August, based on the theory that it would be cooler in June. The plan kind of worked and we managed to beat the surprising heat by hiding in the forest most days and racking up when those slopers were just feeling too greasy slopey.

Graham had a great month, ticking a number of classic boulder problems. He is working towards his goal of climbing all the “Top100” problems V10 and below!

Working out the moves on the Top100 problem "Physics Hyperbole" (V9)

Topping out the Top100 "Storm Troopers" (V8) in Paradise Valley

Another one of Graham’s goals is to tick every route at the Forgotten Wall in Cheakamus Canyon. He’s making awesome progress in this regard with only three routes left to go.

"Redneck Shootout" (5.13a)

Graham also hit a bouldering milestone this month, with a send of his tenth V10. Woohoo!

One of two V10s Graham sent this month, "Mr. Bigglesworth Low"

Kim similarly had a great month. She made quick work of a number of her long outstanding boulder projects in the V4 to V6 range, and found some new projects that piqued her interest as well.

Kim on the send of "Lounge Act" (V6)

She also reached two of her major climbing life goals within just a few days of each other. On June 21 she sent her first V7, “The Fuzz”, and three days later she sent her first 5.13a, “Just Can’t Do It”. These moments of ecstasy and disbelief are leading into what is sure to be an exciting summer.

"The Fuzz", Kim's first V7

"Just Can't Do It", Kim's first 5.13a

Next up is a quick turn-around on the Island, and then we’ll be on our way to Canmore until mid-July.

xx

Graham and Kim